First things first, you’d be forgiven for thinking this was in Hackney. The lucent, swish interiors, the window seats overlooking the street, the low-intervention wine list, the highly aesthetic menu. But alas; there are no small plates – there are nibbles, starters, mains and puddings – and no, it’s not in Hackney, it’s in Fitzrovia, darling.
July is a nice idea. The majority of the menu takes inspo from the Alsace region of northeastern France, bordering Germany and Switzerland, which sounds fun enough, but seems to translate into dishes which are heavy, stodgy and beige. For starters: a ‘meh’ walnut and onion tart with yoghurt and lovage and a clumpy potato salad decorated with bacon and dill. So far, so uninspiring. The chicken schnitzel for mains was dry, while the spaetzle and munster gratin with (not enough) lemon was limp, insipid, monotonous. The atmosphere was almost as beige as the food: most of the chatter seemed to come from the staff, creating a feeling that the whole restaurant was listening to your conversation.
As a spot for a glass of wine and a snack on a sunny afternoon, July has potential
Luckily, the wine just about made up for the lacklustre food. We enjoyed a nice sharp, florally bottle of Deux Couleurs Orange – one of the handful of ambers on the drinks list which also boasted an exhaustive array of reds, a few dessert wines as well as twists on cocktail classics (expect nectarine spritz, melon negronis and walnut old fashioneds).
As a spot for a glass of wine and a snack on a sunny afternoon, July has potential. (The rhubarb sorbet for dessert was delicious – fizzing all over the tongue – as was the currywurst crisps.) But as a quote-unquote restaurant? It’s not quite there yet.
The vibe Light and bright, dotted with stylish artworks and Parisian-feeling al fresco tables out front.
The food Weekly changing seasonal menu of Alsatian-inspired plates.
The drink Concise but exciting wine list spotlighting indie European producers.
Time Out tip You’d be better off coming for a glass of vino and a snack – head elsewhere for actual food.