Please note, Inigo Soho has now closed. Time Out Food editors, August 2018.
When you have to spit out three separate mouthfuls over the course of a meal, it’s not a good sign. It was such a pity, too, because on paper Inigo looked great. A stylish little Soho spot specialising in giant hand rolls, its website promised organic and sustainably sourced fish, environmentally friendly packaging and staff paid the London Living Wage. And true, the friendly staff seem happy. But there’s no getting past this being some of the worst food I’ve ever eaten.
The six different rolls I tried were all fairly inedible, but the worst offender was the spicy tuna version. Not only was the rice overcooked and the seaweed wrapper soggy, but the greying fish looked, smelled and tasted foul. Blowtorched mackerel was almost as unpleasant and came with a really pungent lime mayo. Inigo has a tendency to whack unexpected ingredients in its hand rolls: think macadamia nuts or English mustard. Being experimental for the sake of it is never a good look. Still, it’s a cute spot: maybe the owners could turn it into a bar?