Opened in autumn 2010, this venture from two of Lordship Lane’s longest-running and most respected food retailers (the Cheese Block and wholefood grocer SMBS) offers East Dulwich locals something different to the usual high-street curry house. The cooking is South Indian and Gujarati vegetarian, with lots of spicy potatoes and pulses, and aims to educate as well as satisfy.
Carefully presented starters include traditional snack foods such as dhokla (savoury sponge cakes), mehdu vada (crispy lentil doughnuts) and bhel poori, while the popular dosas are a head-turning curl of crisp pancake accompanied by fresh sambars and chutneys. Alongside the main menu are daily specials, such as smoky baingan bharta (roasted aubergine curry) – perfect for warming up a drab Sunday evening. The emphasis throughout is on freshness, flavour and careful spicing, rather than powerful chilli kicks.
Beers include Taj Mahal and Jaipur IPA, and you can finish with Indian-style cardamom coffee or spiced masala tea. A playful note in the window encourages diners to try eating with their hands.