For those who don’t speak Latin, and like me, rely on Google Translate when it comes to interpreting dead classical languages, ‘In Horto’ means ‘In The Garden’. Which makes total sense when you arrive at this determinedly al fresco Southwark spot and walk inside to realise that, wait, hey; you’re still outside! The place is pretty much a big patio, with plants hanging from wooden rafters and a fancy brick oven in the corner where much of the Mediterranean menu is crafted. Fans of fresh air – and who doesn’t love fresh air, honestly? – will be happy with this spacious set-up, as will folk who have bought a nice new jacket and want people to see that they have a nice new jacket, rather than immediately hiding it away in a cloakroom.
But it’s not just the breezy, external nature of the place that makes In Horto proudly align itself with the great outdoors, it’s the food too. Earthy and bountiful, it offers the kind of hearty spread you would expect Monty Don to tuck into after a hard day tending to his dahlias. Monty, of course, would order the bread basket, so we do too, slathering our carbs with creamy burnt onion and ‘Nduja butter using a wooden knife that made me and my friend feel like hungry medieval reenactors. Despite the commitment to butch wood-fired cooking, starters were gentle and light; think burrata, fig with cherry molasses and crab meat in charred baby gem.
It offers the kind of hearty spread you would expect Monty Don to tuck into after a hard day tending to his dahlias.
It’s the mains though – which come in single as well as sharing portions for two – which truly make us feel as if we’ve been invited to a wealthy farmer’s country estate to eat on a long table in the fields. Beef shin and cheek parmentier with veal bone marrow is a majestic thing; dense with flavour, oozing richness and topped with creamy, crispy spuds. And it’s not merely a meat-fest; corn ribs, parmigiana di melanzane and whole baked cauliflower let vegans and veggies share the indulgence. An uncanny version of Quality Chop House’s near-legendary confit potatoes proves you can indeed have potatoes on the side of potatoes, but their consumption means you might end up grabbing one of In Horto’s communal blankets and dozing off before pudding.
Which you definitely shouldn’t do. We had heard Very Good Things about the tiramisu, a classic, god-tier dessert, but sadly they were out. A large – possibly too large after all those potatoes – tarte tatin came out instead, washed down with a Saunternes from a consistently impressive Euro-centric wine list (Negroni carafes are also available). With food like this, who needs walls and roof?
The vibe Decidedly al fresco dining in Southwark from people who gave us Flat Iron Square.
The food A hearty Mediterranean menu with perfect potatoes in many forms.
The drinks A lovely wine list, but also carafes of cocktails.
Time Out tip All the mains come in sharing sizes for two – perfect for romantics.