Perennially packed, noisy with chatter and with tables spilling on to the broad pavements of Chiswick High Road, this venture (from the Soho House group) continues to strike a chord with the dapper denizens of W4. Pitched between a grand café and an art deco bar, it’s cleverly nailed a look that transcends generations; parents and teenagers can dine together at a venue that offends neither’s sensibilities.
The all-day menu is accessible, featuring fail-safe favourites such as full english breakfast, buttermilk pancakes, croque monsieur, steaks from the grill and simple mains such as plaice goujons with fries. Vitamin smoothies are an antidote to the comfort food, but given that our waitress visibly wrinkled her nose when describing their hyper-nutritious contents, we’re not sure how often they’re ordered.
Mostly, customers are here for hangover-friendly dining. A fish pie was packed with succulent chunks of salmon and haddock, while avocado on toast came with a perfectly poached egg. Desserts are knowingly retro: black forest gateau or crêpes suzette, for instance. Prices are a little high, given that portions are on the modest side, but no one here gives a hoot.