Harry’s Dolce Vita is a glamorous Italian bistro on the street behind Harrods. Inside, walls are mirrored, staff are bow-tied and, on my lunchtime trip, everyone appeared to be enjoying a glass of wine after a mega shopping session.
The carpaccio di manzo antipasto was dazzling: deliciously soft raw beef topped with chunks of sea salt, served with a simple salad of peppery rocket and sharp parmesan. A plate of clam linguine was also great: sautéed simply with white wine, garlic and a hit of chilli. Then there was the decadent amalfi sundae. It arrived at the table stacked high with lemon sorbet, milk gelato, candied lemon, whipped cream, meringue and sugared rosemary. It had so much potential (every component was delicious on its own) but was too big. If it was half the size and served in a cute little sundae bowl it’d be a contender for the best dessert in town.
Other dishes, sadly, were sub-par, such as chewy veal parmesan or the soggy zucchini fiori (flowers), and service was inconsistent – attentive one minute, dismissive the next, once more important diners arrived. But I’d go back for starters and spritzes. Dessert too, if someone’s willing to share.