Hafez

Nailed to the walls – and even parts of the ceiling – pretty spoons, Persian teapots, trays and other silverware serve as quirky decoration in this long-running neighbourhood restaurant named after 14th-century Persian poet Hafez. The kitchen’s style of cooking is pretty traditional; kebabs (aromatic, generously sized and lean) are grilled over charcoal, stews are gently slow-cooked and rice is boiled then steamed for a fluffy light finish. Hafez’s signature dish, the pomegranate-based fesenjan, is among six chicken and lamb stews (four of which are also available in vegetarian versions) on the menu. Made the classic way with big pieces of chicken, the fesenjan features a thick sauce that’s sweet and tart in equal measure, and best mopped up with freshly baked Persian bread topped with sesame seeds. Established in 1983, Hafez has perfected the art of extending hospitable, familiar service to both regulars and newcomers, and has understandably built a loyal local fan base.