When a place calls itself ‘one of London’s trendiest restaurants’ on its website, it sets itself up for a fall before you’ve even sat down. This Will Ricker outpost occupies a prime corner of Shoreditch, it’s true, but on a busy Thursday evening the clientele was more City workers and tourists than East End hipsters. It does have appeal, though.
The bar area is airy and stylishly outfitted; staff are chatty, inventive cocktails flow and the mood is decadently bohemian. It’s a slicker story in the adjacent dining room, with the dark wood, chandeliers and pared-down presentation of so many pan-Asian spots.
Food is a well-considered mix of dim sum, sushi, tempura, curries and grills, all served with efficient charm. We ploughed through cod siu mai and black bean dumplings; a generous portion of vegetable tempura; a perfect example of sweet, nutty pad thai; and a chicken, coconut and peanut sambal that really needed a starchy accompaniment. All were thoroughly tasty and satisfying, but few dishes really excited on the same level as the cocktail menu next door.
It’s a similar story at E&O and XO, Ricker venues in Notting Hill and Belsize Village, respectively. At their best, they’re fun, smart and useful – with friendlier service than you might expect in such fashion-conscious places.