Despite its low-key location – a triangle-shaped corner spot in a residential stretch between Stroud Green and Crouch End – Goods Office always seems to be busy. The all-day eatery is buzzing right from the early morning – when local freelancers turn up to take advantage of their croissant, wi-fi and unlimited coffee for a tenner offer – to the evening, when I can only assume it’s full of commuters who’ve stepped off the W3 bus right into happy hour.
Sitting outside under a string of festoon lights on a warm summer’s evening, you can certainly see the appeal. The drinks were cool, Wimbledon was playing (ever so quietly) inside and, recognising familiar faces, tables were turning around to greet one another.
There’s a brunch menu served until 5pm, but the evening is all about small plates. Both the ‘ugly fish goujons’ and the jalapeño and cheese croquettes were well-seasoned and moreish. The mac and cheese was, as we’d hoped, both heavy and soothing, while a plate of fried chicken satisfied our need for something hot and indulgent. Other dishes needed tweaking: our halloumi was swimming in way too much honey, while a green salad was similarly drowning in oil and salt.
We finished off with a Pimms-inspired cheesecake, which, like the rest of the meal, was solid, if not sensational. On the whole, Goods Office serves the kind of comfort food you’d be pleased to eat at a dinner party. Which is pretty fitting as, if you’re local, you’re likely to end up chatting to your neighbours.