Gaucho Smithfield

With its cowhide-and-bling interiors, sleek service, expense-account pricing and reputation for out-of-this-world meat, there was a touch of shock and awe about the Gaucho chain’s rapid expansion across the capital. But with the acclaimed Goodman and Hawksmoor steakhouses more recently championing US and UK cattle, Londoners no longer buy quite so readily into the Argie steak legend. Certainly, our most recent visit had shortcomings. That we ordered bife de chorizo (sirloin) medium rare and it arrived with barely a trace of pink was only one failing: it simply didn’t have the expected depths of flavour. Argentinian classics such as chorizo sausage and grilled provolone cheese feature among the starters, but there’s plenty of ceviche too. A smart move: the citrus-cooked fish (more associated with Peru or Ecudaor) offers a light foil to the beef-heavy mains section. A shrimp causita was fresh and zingy, but lacked the kick our waiter said the leche de tigre (‘tiger’s milk’ – ceviche marinade) would bring. Chips were adequate, but a mixed salad was oversalted, with under-ripe tomatoes and none of the promised olives. The exclusively Argentinian wine list includes a ‘fine and rare’ section, but even the regular list will make you gasp at the prices – the cheapest bottles nudge £30. Gaucho needs to woo us all over again.