Gallery Mess (CLOSED)

As befits its Chelsea location, this welcoming brasserie at the Saatchi art gallery is smarter than most. The white linen tablecloths, exposed brickwork and impressive bar are all somewhat in thrall to the vaulted ceiling and expansive curtain of floor-to-ceiling arched windows running the length of the listed interior. There’s also a large outdoor terrace.

Naturally, the art addict touches are present and correct – a giant shoe sculpture here, a neon picture there – but the menu itself is a lesson in conservative precision. Service is disarmingly friendly, the wine list modest (but with plenty of choice by the glass) and mains offer comforting flavours and proportions. So you’ll find cod and chips, steak sandwich, charcuterie and smoked fish platters, caesar salad and afternoon tea.

Chicken breast fricassee was delicately presented with a drizzle of foamy cep sauce, but served with slightly rubbery gnocchi. Smoked haddock came with a rich hollandaise and a perfectly poached egg. As for dessert, they don’t come much more old school than steamed rhubarb pudding or knickerbocker glory.