Freak Scene Sushi & Robata is the second branch of the pan-Asian fusion restaurant headed up by ex-Nobu chef Scott Hallsworth (the other is in Parsons Green) and kind of a strange place. But on my visit it was completely packed out – I couldn’t get a reservation for two weeks – so I had an inkling they were doing something right here in Balham.
There’s two floors, but they’re very different; upstairs is full of (very) tightly-packed tables, an open kitchen and alarmingly loud rock music, which later on shifted to ’90s RnB. The basement is quieter, more sultry, with thick curtains and just a few tables. Downstairs is much more like an actual omakase restaurant, and would be better for a date. There’s graffiti in the toilet, which feels as though it’s been written on for effect; there’s no way that much could have accumulated in the month or so since opening.
Some things sound gimmicky yet end up delicious, like sushi tacos with truffle ponzu and shallot salsa
Staff are great and not over-the-top polite. Normal, chill types who talk to you like human beings. It’s nice. And make sure you go with their recommendations – some things on the menu sound gimmicky yet end up delicious, like sushi tacos with truffle ponzu and shallot salsa, salty, citrusy and full of flavour, served on what is basically an XL pop chip. It works!
To start, we washed down edamame (charred and deeply smoky, tossed through butter and sake) with cucumber margaritas. We followed with crab sushi, made with fresh crab, not sticks (the waiter told me proudly), which was fresh and sort of healthy tasting, but certainly not life changing. They were merely an opener for the sushi that came next; first, the Freak Scene special, where sticky rice encased crunchy tempura prawns, topped with seared hamachi, delightfully fatty and soft, with a sticky sweet hoisin hiding underneath. Next, the nigiri omakase, featuring tuna, salmon, scallop, sea bass and sea bream, all multi-coloured and shiny on the plate, tantalisingly delicate and satisfying. The tuna won the sushi lottery crown, buttery soft and tender, topped with salty fish roe.
Some dishes were frighteningly expensive; the black cod sitting in thick laksa was delightfully rich, and pretty titchy for £25, but the miso aubergine at £10 was sticky and sweet. With drinks, dinner here can easily climb to £80 a head, and the vibe won’t be for everyone, but the food more than makes up for it.
The vibe A buzzy, OTT spot with inventive, colourful fusion dishes and the vibes to match.
The food Sushi, small plates and fish and meaty mains with slap-you-round-the-face flavour and lots of fun presentation.
The drink Twists on classic cocktails and a short but satisfying wine list.
Time Out tip Don’t fill up on sushi – the mains deserve to be tried.