Please note, Foxlow Soho has now closed. Time Out Food editors, April 2019.
Here’s something to celebrate: a new Foxlow – from the duo who founded Hawksmoor – has arrived in Soho. I’m not sure how PC it is to gender a restaurant, but this new arrival is definitely a boy. A neighbourhood diner with a meat-focused menu, the vibe at this, Foxlow’s fourth London branch, is stylish and masculine – if a bit generic. It’s spacious and wood-heavy, with trendy floor tiling and a big square bar in the middle. Basically, Foxlow Soho is the restaurant equivalent of a Topman model. And who doesn’t like Topman models?
The food on my visit was comforting and competent, with some delicious moments. One of those moments was a lusciously soft and stringy side of mac ’n’ cheese with lovely breadcrumbs on top. Also fantastic was the crunchy gem salad, sprinkled with Twineham Grange, a vegetarian ‘parmesan’. The hanger steak, too, was excellent and cooked to pink perfection, though mine came with a too-salty peppercorn sauce. For a place with such a meaty pedigree, that was the night’s biggest disappointment. The fried chicken, which had been recommended by friends, was another letdown: juicy but a tad bland. The staff are lovely, though, and you’ll leave feeling well fed and well looked after. Foxlow’s a fine choice for a solid night out (and some sensational mac ’n’ cheese).