Famed for their Cantonese-style roast duck, this modest restaurant displays barbecued meats – pork ribs, pork belly and whole ducks – in the window facing busy Wardour Street. Curious passersby stop and stare; drooling is acceptable.
Of the two Four Seasons in Chinatown, this branch has the friendlier service. On our most recent visit (one of many), the roast duck was slightly disappointing; the duck happened to be a greedy one with a too thick layer of fat, and the skin was almost chewy as a result of being overly drenched with the accompanying sauce. Better was the crispy pork belly – a tri-layer of perfectly crisp skin, melt-in-your-mouth fatty middle and juicy lean meat. Fujian fried rice was fragrant with a generous topping of savoury seafood and meaty titbits, but like the beef ho fun, was a little heavy-handed on the seasoning.
If you’re overwhelmed by the vast choice of dishes – hundreds on the regular menu, dozens more on the ’chef’s special’ menu with non-Cantonese dishes – the set meals are simple but good value. Open until 4am daily, Four Seasons is a decent restaurant for a late night meal in central London that wouldn't burn a hole in your pocket.
by Christine Yeo
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