Fonda is kind of a big deal. The second London restaurant from Santiago Lastra, it follows the storied chef’s Michelin-starred Kol, a place that people discuss in such reverential tones that you can’t be sure Lastra isn’t the millennial version of a groovy 1970s cult leader, leaving in his wake a host of giddy disciples willing to lick the mole from his apron. Opening in 2020, his Marylebone-based ‘modern Mexican’ is one of the few London spots to regularly feature in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants ranking (placing 17th at the most recent ceremony). Securing a table at Kol remains more difficult than sitting through The Substance without wincing (even with a £185 tasting menu, which prices most diners out of the experience entirely.)
A tart rhubarb and gooseberry take on the tequila paloma is just the right sort of rocket fuel
Many then, would consider the arrival of Fonda a blessing, as it pitches itself as a more casual, a la carte alternative to Kol’s fine dining largesse. The space is welcoming and warm, cast in soft pink and orange tones, with massive palms nestling next to impressive, XXL Mexican arts and crafts. This being Mayfair, the crowd is a mix of city boys in suits, fashion execs and beautiful people, all of them getting stuck into the punchy cocktail menu. Here, the humble margarita is eschewed in favour of the regal paloma. A tart rhubarb and gooseberry take on the tequila drink is just the right sort of rocket fuel and a smokey pasilla chilli version with mezcal as divinely rambunctious.
Like Kol, the focus here is on Mexican food made with British ingredients alongside a pledge to never, ever use lime, in a ‘we’re not like other Mexican restaurants’, kind of way. From the short-ish menu we begin with the most impactful plate of the night; a chunky ceviche of Scottish sea trout, decorated with crisp rounds of butternut squash. Fresh and light, it still maintains a commandingly fishy heft. Keep it coming. Queso de Aro is cooler and cleaner, a half moon of fresh, zingy white cheese with a side of red martajada sauce and house-made tortillas to spread it onto. A pair of puffy, empanada-shaped quesadillas are next; deeply gooey, filled with melted Oaxaca-style cheese from Canterbury and dusted with a halo of shaved black truffle. However, £24 for two seems steep for what amounts to four mouthfuls. Not so much though as the £34 ‘gringa’, a more trad quesadilla layered with an enticing-sounding lobster al pastor, which is sadly drowned out by overly bold Spenwood cheese.
We’re given a trio of salsas and told to use them liberally, and have to do just that in order to get a hit off the dishes. Everything is nice enough, but nothing really wallops you with flavour. Maybe, just maybe, a little squeeze of lime could be in order?
The vibe High-end haute Mexican dining in Mayfair.
The food Tacos, tostadas, quesadillas and carnitas made with big-ticket British ingredients.
The drink A heroic offering of mezcal and tequila-based cocktails. Try the easy-sipping Fig Leaf Batanga with mezcal, fig leaf liqueur and kola, or something from the dedicated Paloma menu.
Time Out tip The Arroz con Leche rice pudding is your go-to pudding order, an extremely creamy bowl of Mexican ambrosia dotted with quince, dusted with cinnamon, and slicked with mezcal custard.