You can’t really move for mid-range pizza restaurants in London. You’ve got places like Pizza Pilgrims for a quick dinner with your mum, Homeslice for a pal’s birthday, Gordos for eating on the street before a gig, and Yard Sale for some wacky novelty options. Fatto a Mano – a branch of which just opened in King’s Cross – doesn’t quite do any of these things.
Sitting outside its (extremely busy) restaurant, you could just about imagine you were in Naples. The staff huddle around the giant pizza oven; the tables are pushed together under enormous linen umbrellas. It was a really sunny day when I visited, too, which obviously helps. I’m not sure King’s Cross in the winter quite has that same Italian charm. There is, though, the menu, which is all mortadella, ‘nduja and, yes, burrata, which promises to keep things traditional.
As with a lot of these places, the aim of the game is speed. No sooner had we sat down than a very friendly staff member started taking our order. Fatto a Mano started in Brighton seven years ago, focussing on the all important pizza, sure, but also beer. My boyfriend, intrigued by the sound of a Limoncello IPA, orders a pint, while I go for a glass of the house white. He chose better: the beer is a hazy, citrusy, smooth affair; the wine is fine, maybe a bit warm, and nothing to write home about. Serves me right for not trusting their expertise.
We’re talking smoke-charred and chewy crusts; portions so large the plates barely fit on the table.
As for the food? We’re talking smoke-charred and chewy crusts; portions so large the plates barely fit on the table. I ordered the fried aubergine and smoked ricotta pizza, which tasted like that deep, woody smell that lingers in your throat after spending an evening around a campfire. The aubergine was perfectly softened; the tomato sauce noticeably fresh. It was great, but intense – that smokiness could maybe be dialled down a touch.
My boyfriend went for the ‘nduja pizza, which was accompanied by silky roasted peppers and peppery, just-plucked basil. Again, it was seriously fresh: there’s a definite sense that the ingredients have been carefully chosen. The only complaint was that there should have been more of that ‘nduja, which, if anything, shows how delicious the dish was. The spicy pork was the highlight, and for £13 you want a good old serving of it.
Foolishly, we also ordered a side of cheesy garlic bread, which was heavy on the garlic, and a portion of chips. Go for it if you’re ravenous, or want a whole load of leftovers to take home. I really enjoyed picking at it the day after.
As for where Fatto a Mano fits into London’s pizza scene? It’s probably not the place to spend a long evening catching up, and it might be a bit too speedy for a first date. The food is clearly considered, though, and the portions are extremely generous. If you’ve got out-of-town pals visiting (especially if they’re coming into King’s Cross), you’re going to struggle to find somewhere better for an easy dinner before going elsewhere.
The vibe Busy, modern pizzeria for couples and pals.
The food Generously-portioned, simple twists on traditional Neapolitan food.
The drinks Weird, tasty beers and sweet aperitivos.
Time Out tip Ask for a box to take the inevitable leftovers home.