Burger pop-ups in pubs is a combination that clearly works. Meateasy started the trend at the Goldsmiths Tavern, which went on to become Meat Liquor. The next to pop up was Lucky Chip at the Sebright Arms, which is still in residence.
The latest burger pop-up is at the Three Compasses pub in Dalston – a proper East End boozer with stained carpets, dartboards and sports trophies gathering dust on the shelves. More of a Pat Butcher sort of place, you wouldn’t come here expecting a fancy gastropub burger. On offer: four burgers, with chips as the only side dish.
A mushy chickpea pattie, strongly flavoured with dill, made up the meat free burger, while the ‘Fatt Ecuadorian’ beef burger was garnished with a slice of avocado and not-so-spicy ‘spicy mayo’.
Served in yellow styrophone takeaway boxes, the dish presentation is ironic (or at least, we think it is). To set the scene, chef Matt Bishop – sporting tattooed arms and a Tupac-style bandana – launched Fattburger with a US-style competitive burger-eating competition, to see who can stuff as many down their throats as quickly as possible. Ironic, we think.