Ruining the mothers of Mile End was a short-lived strategy for East London Liquor Company. The gin distillery and bar near Victoria Park Village now lets visitors line their stomachs in a restaurant that’s merged with the bottle shop. It’s a narrow room with brick walls, candlelight and chequerboard floor tiles, and it’s just as cool as the bar. Plus, they’ve prettied up the terrace with a pergola structure, climbing vines and lavender – there’s no escaping the fact you’re in a car park, but that’s alfresco dining in London for you.
On our visit, a friendly Irish waitress had dry wit to fit the venue’s hip yet down-to-earth vibe. Adding a grin to gin, I guess, although we actually explored the succinct wine list, with an agreeable Spanish red pairing well with pizza. These affordable stonebaked numbers are the stars of the food menu, although one topped with fig and 'nduja could have done with more of the fiery sausage meat.
Beyond this, a mix of poshed-up Italian small plates and mains clashed with the informality of eating pizza. Smoked aubergine with lardo came as a flavoursome purée with crisp, salty flatbreads for dunking, but the dip leaned on the acrid side. Poussin, truffled polenta and asparagus was easiest on the eyes, though a heavy-handed measure of truffle sadly blew all other flavours out the water.
Still, since this distillery is so isolated, adding a restaurant to ELLC is a very smart move. Those making the journey for a gin tasting can fuel themselves for the tipsy trip home.