Akira Back is one of those slick, showbizzy chefs who isn’t quite a celebrity in the UK yet. No matter, the former professional snowboarder has a collection of 20-plus restaurants in high-end hotels from Bangkok to Las Vegas and a name that seems destined to be displayed in a shimming font across Dubai rooftops.
After decades in the game, last year Back marked his London debut with two restaurants inside the new Mayfair outpost of the Mandarin Oriental. First came a branch of his global hit, the Japanese-inspired and eponymously named Akira Back, followed by this, the smaller, 14-seater Dosa, which offers an extravagant £195 tasting menu inspired by the Seoul-born, Colorado-raised chef’s Korean roots.
Wagyu ribs are served alongside a golden egg yolk. It’s hard to work out which is more melt-in-the-mouth
Hidden by sliding doors in the hotel’s burnished bowels, Dosa resembles a glinting, metal box, split down the middle by a massive marble counter. Stepping inside feels like being thrust into a particularly knotty game in The Crystal Maze’s industrial zone. As befitting someone who has so many restaurants scattered across the globe, Back is lending his name rather than his presence to Dosa. But a dedicated and ineffably charming team run a tight ship, delivering a run of delicately crafted, fish-forward dishes, including a number of stand-outs. Take for example, an onion donut canape. Hot and bouncy and with that fresh-from-the-funfair feel, they’re topped with creamy crab and a coy smudge of caviar, and sassy in the way that only a bite-size donut can be. Or the gorgeous, furiously fresh curl of wild pink sea bream ceviche swirled with taut wedges of mandarin.
Cuttlefish and yukhoe gimbap, hand-rolled into its seaweed sheath at the table, is another revelation, one bite revealing twists of exquisitely spiced seafood and the next the buoyant beef tartare. Wagyu galbi ribs are served alongside a golden egg yolk, and it’s hard to work out which is more melt-in-the-mouth.
But alas not everything hits such a mighty mark. A lacy pancake and chunky langoustine dish is distractingly salty, while scallop mandoo dumplings seem overly doughy and not quite scallop-y enough. A shotglass starter of thick congee, though brimming with umami richness, could have done with a spoon. A couple of tweaks though, and Dosa might just be worth the hefty price tag.
The vibe Chef’s table dining served by a slick, dedicated team.
The food Refined, fine-dining Korean dishes served as an eight course tasting menu with a few surprises thrown in.
The drink If you’re feeling flush, the knowledgeable and super keen in-house sommelier will take you on a wine journey.
Time Out tip You’re a swift stroll from the Guinea Grill, one of Mayfair’s most historic pubs.