Please note, Dip & Flip Brixton has now closed. Time Out Food editors, August 2019.
They must get through a fair few metres of kitchen roll at this new Brixton branch of the French dip specialists Dip & Flip. There’s a roll on each table, and I tore off at least five sheets wiping gravy from my face and fingers. My date used even more, having managed to somehow get gravy on her forehead.
You see, gravy’s a big thing here. It’s central to a French dip (a roll filled with roast meat dipped in gravy) but also comes as an accompaniment for nearly everything else on the menu. So they’d get it right, right? Not quite. I like mine with big salty depth where you can taste the bones but this was, well, meek. Still, it’s redundant alongside the burgers anyway – they’re much better left to their own devices. My charred-but-still-pink patty was loaded with flavour and got a big thumbs up for going heavy on the seasoning.
And the dips? A curate’s egg. The sweet and tender slow-cooked lamb in mine was glorious but the soon-soggy bread roll pretty much gave up on playing the host. I ate it pining for the burger I’d just shared, resenting my date for finishing it off. We won’t stay in touch.