The Cork & Bottle’s unprepossessing Leicester Square exterior hides stairs that lead down to a grotto of cosy vaults and wooden tables – a useful bolt-hole in an area over-endowed with tourist joints. But it’s no longer the only contender, with the likes of the nearby Terroirs excelling in terms of dining and all-round presentation. While décor is a little shabby, the wine list still makes for a characterful world tour, exhibiting plenty of knowledge and an experienced palate, shown off in regular themed tastings. The menu is a globe-trotting bistro mix with a noteworthy selection of cheeses. The place is quiet at lunchtime and packed with old hands and buzzing conversation in the evening. Joining in for a plate of cheese and some really interesting wine can be a very good way to begin (or end) your evening in the West End.
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