Constancia Argentine Grill

It’s all set up so nicely for a steak joint, in theory. There’s the Tanner Street location, with its bovine connotations, while the ‘olde London’ Southwark atmosphere seems just right for meats grilled on an ancient-looking parrilla grill. Yet Constancia’s bland exterior, wedged beneath a modern residential block, accurately set the tone for the evening. Decor is as you’d expect from a homely Argentine restaurant: wood, raw brick, a few gaucho allusions (mounted horse head, lasso) and that hefty grill. With its chains, encrusted bars and blackened brick surround in plain view, it promises big flavours. Yet while a couple of chorizo criollos were fine (it’s hard to go wrong with sausage), an ojo de bife (ribeye) was stringy and light on flavour. Coming after appetisers of dry, shreddable serrano ham, and a basket of poor-quality sliced baguette, it was a deal breaker. Constancia charges less than many of its competitors, but that hardly makes it cheap – it would be worth raising prices by a few quid if the result was meat with that true Argentinian magic.