Please note Clockjack Oven is now closed. Time Out Eating & Drinking editors, Jan 2017.
Clock jack, steam jack, bottle jack… back in the days of yore, there were many ways to spit roast a piece of meat, and with the current chicken trend sweeping London, it appears that there still may be. While the likes of Chicken Shop in Kentish Town have gone with innovative new rotisserie techniques (marinating, steaming, then roasting), Clockjack Oven have revived an oldie, but a goodie. The clock jack spit roasting method, sees plump chickens (here free-range and sourced from Brittany) revolving around an open flame, visible behind the blond wood counter.
Available in three pieces, four pieces, or whole (enough for 2-3 people), the chicken is served with one of four sauces: ranch (creamy and garlicky); barbecue (thin, tangy and sweet); chilli (South American hot sauce style); and Caesar (rich, with a hint of anchovy).
The main event here is perfectly good – but it’s just roast chicken. What got us more excited were the sides, including a generous portion of 'crispy chicken bites' with a thick crunchy coating. Well-seasoned but not greasy, these were great value at £4.95. Likewise, the chips were spot-on: fatter than fries but slimmer than a chip-shop chip, ours had crisp golden cases giving way to fluffy, steamy centres.
Clockjack’s owners are planning to give Nando’s a run for their money by rolling it out as a chain.