Chucs Mayfair

A spin-off from the yachtwear shop next door, Chucs is pitched at Mayfair's ultra-wealthy residents, who will happily spend £165 on a pair of lilac men’s swimshorts, or £150 on a women's long-sleeved t-shirt. The interior continues the yacht theme with staff wearing nautical uniforms, right down to gold-braided epaulettes, while photographs of the picturesque port of Positano and other gilded holiday destinations adorn the walls.

Mayfair isn’t the place to come looking for a bargain meal of course, and Chucs is no exception, with an Italian and continental menu where a starter of grilled vegetables costs £15, or a main course of octopus salad weighs in at £29. But there was no faulting our dishes: the Italian staff in the kitchen turned out a fine seafood tagliolini, studded with baby clams, tender octopus and freshly-made pasta. A small side of caponata (£5) was also exemplary, the aubergine correctly soused with sweet and sour notes; but the the £4-a-head cover charge (for bread and radishes) an irritation.

Chucs is a likeable place, but given the size of our bill we had hoped for more efficient service; on our visit, the staff seemed to be barely coping with a not particularly busy lunch service.