Chef tips to help you raise your food game this Christmas

The secret to the perfect mince pie? According to Phil King, executive chef of divine Islington bakery Pophams, it’s all in the mincemeat, aka chopped, dried fruits, spirits and spices. He advises making your own… and spiking it with booze: ‘Rum is great, but any flavoured liquor will work and can add a new dimension to your mincemeat: keep feeding it a couple of tablespoons a week until you use it.’ And remember, mincemeat isn’t just for mince pies, you can ‘make extra and use it in anything you can think of afterwards. Mix it through a fruit loaf for a deeply spiced flavour, or even save some for hot cross buns. The flavour is extraordinary and the suet adds an amazing lardy texture to the bun.’

You don’t have to limit yourself to trad roast turkey on the big day. Farokh Talati, head chef at meat masters St John Bread and Wine, says, ‘I’m an avid fan of game: over the years I’ve delighted the family with quails, pigeons, guinea fowls and partridge.’ Looking to branch out on a budget? ‘Get down to your local butchers. Some of the butchers I speak to do a wonderful game pie mix, which is all the good bits of the birds that they put together for you to concoct into a lidded delight, allowing you to try all these delicious birds at a reasonable price.’

Smoked salmon is traditional at Christmas, but why stop there? Rick Toogood, executive chef at seafood hotspot Prawn on the Lawn, reckons you should serve oysters. ‘There are hundreds of varieties of oysters, so don’t be nervous to ask your fishmonger what they taste like. Some are more mineral in flavour, some sweeter, and others more creamy. It’s all down to personal preference!’ He also recommends sourcing extras to help your oysters go down a treat, as ’mix-and-match toppings are fun and encourage everyone to get involved around the table. Some of our favourites at Prawn on the Lawn are creamed horseradish, Mexican Tajin seasoning and crispy Szechuan oil; we make our own but Lao Gan Ma is delicious.’

Christmas is cookie season, so it’s well worth whipping up a batch. Give them as a gift, bring them to a party, or serve them up after dinner with boozy hot chocolate – you can’t go wrong. You’ll find the prettiest creations in town at Biscuiteers, which specialises in whimsical, detailed designs for every occasion. We asked Basil Norman, head of production at Biscuiteers, for some quick tips. He was keen to tell us there’s no need to splash out on pricy equipment. ‘Don’t have a cookie cutter? Simply trace the shape on to greaseproof paper and use this as your template.’ He also recommends sourcing extras to make your creations special. ‘Try adding colourful sprinkles and edible glitter to your festive biscuits for a touch of magic.’ 

Forget mulled wine: a spiced cocktail is the ultimate winter warmer as the temperatures drop. Sandia Chang, sommelier and co-founder of Kitchen Table, recommends concocting a Sichuan-spiced negroni. ‘It’s one of my favourite ways to use spices in cocktails, as the peppercorns are actually quite fruity and earthy rather than delivering heat. I toast a teaspoon of Sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan for a few minutes, then mix them with a neutral-flavoured gin and let them infuse.’ Mix 30ml of your gin with equal parts Campari and Antica Formula vermouth, pour into an ice-filled tumbler, then garnish with a twist of tangerine peel. Bottoms up!