Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis (CLOSED)

This diminutive bistro, located on a quiet side street, is dwarfed by neighbours Harrods and the Mandarin Oriental. It’s a cosy, slightly cramped set-up and the decor plays up to the unmistakably French theme with a velvet curtain by the entrance, mirrors, wood panelling, and tea towel-like table linen. Prices are easy on the pocket for this part of town and the restaurant attracts plenty of office workers at lunchtime.

Cooking has a southern slant, and the seafood and fish specialities are stellar choices. A starter of escabeche of lightly seared red mullet fillets tastefully perched over sliced softened onions delivered a tangy vinegary flavour infused with warming auburn-hued saffron. Main courses weren’t as memorable – chargrilled veal escalope needed an extra hit of strident sage to lift it from blandness. Happily, the accompanying frites were crisp and piping hot, and crushed pink peppercorns strewn over the green salad provided explosive hits of pungency.

Desserts were acceptable – a sweet pastry tart filled with custardy crème pâtissière worked well with the astringency of fruity blackcurrant jam and a pot of boozy cherries. Service doesn’t miss a beat. A second branch in Smithfield, Bistrot des Halles, opened in 2013.