Ceviche Soho (CLOSED)

The Peruvian party hasn’t stopped on Frith Street since Ceviche showed up: Martin Morales’s restaurant-bar (and his joie de vivre) seems to have struck a chord with Londoners. Ceviche may not quite take you to Cusco, but friendly South American staff provide more warmth than Inti, the Inca sun god.

Pisco, the South American brandy, is the deity bowed down to behind the bar, though. Sample it in one of the best Pisco sours you’ll find in the capital, or knock back the Pasion de Ceviche if you’d prefer the hefty spirit tempered with honey and passionfruit puree. Cocktails alone are worth a visit, but the food is just as impressive. Obviously the star of the show is ceviche, with the don ceviche (£9) ordered by many a diner – these fleshy cuts of sea bass soaked in tongue-tingling leche de tigre are as famous as Francis Bacon in Soho. Order with corn cakes, fresh and vibrant salads packed with avocado and lightly spiced chicken dishes (guinea pig is yet to make an appearance!) and you’ll be feeling higher than a gap-year student on a Peruvian journey of self-discovery.