Céleste (CLOSED)

Elegant, bright and visually luxuriant, this big-money reboot of the Lanesborough’s flagship dining room (formerly Apsleys) is all bas-reliefs and dangling chandeliers beneath a domed glass ceiling – a luxe backdrop for food with serious culinary gravitas. The kitchen is headed up by Darcio Henriques who brings a modern-European accent to British produce in dishes ranging from blanched green asparagus with mimosa egg, oscietra caviar and crème fraîche to roasted Dover sole accompanied by sautéed spring onions, smoked tomatoes, cockles and garlicky parsley butter. Other crowd-pulling attractions include sedate afternoon teas and a tempting line-up of vintage cognacs in the adjoining Library Bar.