We’ll happily revisit Cassis time and again for its crispy farmhouse chicken: thick, juicy rounds of Devonshire chook that are sous-vided, rolled in herbs, pan-fried and then oven-baked. This triple cooking makes for an outrageously tasty dish, offset with a punchy jus and a healthy scattering of mushrooms.
Other reasons to return to this slick, pretty Kensington bistro include the expertly mixed cocktails at the bar (half price 3-8pm; try the tangy apple berry gin), the clued-up service, the freshly baked sun-dried tomato focaccia served with high-octane olive oil, and the small but exquisite sea bass tartare starter (flavoured with goat’s cheese and sesame).
A recently installed chef from Italy has expanded the pasta and risotto section; we can heartily recommend his almond pesto spaghetti with nuggets of lobster. Desserts consist of monster soufflés made for two, and wonderful fresh tarts and clafoutis. The only downsides to Cassis are that it’s far from cheap (‘les plats’ run from £17 to £29), and portion sizes are sometimes modest. Then again, given the quality of the food, service and atmosphere, it’s pretty good value and a winning choice for an elegant dinner.