Casa Malevo

The neighbourhood has a wealthy and exclusive vibe, but Casa Malevo is a little hub of welcoming homeliness. That’s partly thanks to the small, domestic-feeling interior, with its old-fashioned dresser and a back conservatory that overlooks gardens and a children’s play area.

Decor includes framed photographs of appropriate images such as steaks or a gaucho’s spur. The bare brick walls (Argentinian steak restaurant standard issue, it seems) are even rougher than most. Happily, flavours followed this intense pattern. Starters came in simple blue and white enamel dishes, but there was nothing basic about the cooking.

Sweetbreads were superb, as at sister restaurant Zoilo, their thin, sweet crust giving way to a creamy, quivering interior. A delicate salad of beetroot, goat’s cheese and rocket showed that these grill-masters are sensitive souls really. The salty caramelising on our steaks was just as finely achieved, a sharp hit before the full-flavoured flesh within. Both sirloin and ribeye were first rate. Service was cheery and pally – the staff seemed as happy to be there as we were.