Any restaurant that follows the doctrine of Warren Zevon is alright by us. Referencing the late rock’n’roll prophet’s snack-based coda to his life, ‘Enjoy every sandwich’, say Cafe Mondo on their Instagram profile, Previously (and still) in residence at the nearby Grove House Tavern, Mondo Sando has graduated from pub snack purveyor to late-night sarnie bar. Far more than the sum of its parts, Cafe Mondo is not merely a place to grab a sandwich and go. This a place to linger, to drink, and have fun without being trapped by the fanciness and fastidiousness of a Proper Restaurant. Somewhere in-between classic American diner and British greasy spoon – with a touch of NYC deli thrown in for good measure – Cafe Mondo might seem like a casual place, but the food is anything but.
Their mighty patty melt is a truck stop favourite delivered in Downton Abbey fashion
You can get a sandwich, sure – and in the daytime that’s the move, with fish finger, egg salad, and pork and greens on offer – but in the evening the menu gets a surprisingly cheffy boost. First comes crostini, using leftover bread from lunch service, crusty nuggets topped with creamy egg mayo and beef fat onions with anchovy. A plate of finocchiona salami and giardiniera pickles is simultaneously exactly what you’d expect from a place like this, but also surprising in its masterful execution.
Alas, Cafe Mondo’s much-vaunted schnitzel isn’t on the menu tonight, but their mighty patty melt is. A truck stop favourite delivered in Downton Abbey fashion – cut into triangles and on a faux Wedgewood plate – it oozes in all the right places, is just salty enough and has the lightly meaty twang of Maccy D’s. Served with a side of spectacularly crispy chicken thigh in a furiously spicy green sauce? We’re so glad we did. Crispyness seems to be a speciality here, and a big, beefy latke comes pillowy-soft in the middle but with a firm, crunchy crust on the outside, marking itself out as a proper rival to Quality Chop House’s iconic confit potatoes.
And that’s all before we mention the willfully, wonderfully chaotic drinks selection. Start with a super savoury, highly filthy, teeny weeny MSG martini in a primary school tumbler, and follow it up with a vaguely menacing ‘Camberwell handshake’ aka a can of Red Stripe and a shot of tequila. Cafe Mondo is the neighbourhood diner that’s ready to take on the world. Or, at the very least, south London.
The vibe A diner with a difference, catering to a cool Camberwell crowd.
The food Come for the sandwiches, stay for the impressive takes on deli-worthy comfort food.
The drink Pure chaos; mini martinis, decent (well-priced) wine, pints of Murphy’s, Bailey’s slushies and Turkish soft drink Uludağ Gazoz.
Time Out tip Cafe Mondo is next door to the acclaimed Toad Bakery, so perfect for a pitstop after your lunchtime loaf re-up. Also, check out the ‘museum’ next to the Cafe Mondo loo.