Bravo to Café François for securing what must be the most-wanted spot in all of Borough Yards. Directly facing Borough Market – it’s nearly impossible not to fall through its doors after a spot of jamon shopping at Brindisa, not least because of the giant neon sign brandishing its name – you can’t help but think the other eateries hidden at the back of this big ticket development might be un petit peu jalouse.
An all-day adjunct to swish and romantique St James's brasserie, Maison François, Café François is more casual by nature. The deli counter opens at a bracing 7am and they plough through until midnight with a well-curated canteen menu that ticks numerous Gallic boxes; escargots, pâté en croûte and onion soup are all present and correct, as are a few more experimental takes, such as a McDonald’s-taunting foie gras, bacon and egg muffin.
Crispy frog’s legs are served with sassy bottoms facing upwards. Think ‘cute’, but with David Cronenberg pulling the strings
The large space itself feels fittingly daytime-y, with slatted wooden seats and tightly packed tables, a fondness for stainless steel which at times borders on the clinical, and the feeling that wherever you’re sitting, you’re kind of in the way. We arrive for dinner, and a platter of chunky, explosive comté gougères (five for £5.50, which seems wildly reasonable) come utterly drenched in fluffy cheese shavings. They make the ideal, creamy foil for a trio of crispy frog’s legs, which are served with their sassy bottoms facing upwards. Think ‘cute’, but with David Cronenberg pulling the strings.
A main of half lobster and prime rib for two comes with a giant platter of fries and fills the brief with no particular flair, but it’s the dessert menu that really impresses. Honestly as long as the entire savoury section, it comes with the added option of getting up to peer at the various eclairs and gateaux in a glass-fronted, drool-proof cabinet before making your final choice. After our adult Willy Wonka experience we settle on a tooth-rattlingly sweet raspberry slice and a more mature (aka, you might avoid instant diabetes) pistachio eclair.
It might all be a little too laidback for a romantic dinner, but if you’re in the area and in need of a lunchtime French fancy (and a wine or three), Café François has got you.
The vibe Casual all-day canteen by Borough Market.
The food Well-priced French classics and one heck of a sweets selection.
The drink Lots of lovely French wine.
Time Out tip The comté gougères might just be the best value restaurant snack in the area.