Already the undisputed south London boss of breezy Italian dining thanks to their original Peckham location and Deptford off-shoot Marcella, Artusi’s West End transfer is a little unexpected, but nevertheless sincerely appreciated. While Soho isn’t short of spots offering a taste of La Dolce Vita – there’s Bocca Di Lupo, Lina Stores, and Polpo to name but tre – sometimes you don’t need a pastel-shaded trattoria from a Wes Anderson movie, but simply an undisturbed corner in which to carb-load until sage-infused butter seeps from your eyesockets.
Gnocchi is as seductive as a Dolce and Gabbana ad campaign
May we introduce then, Artusi Soho. You’ll find it down Walker’s Court, Soho’s last remaining stretch of iniquity. No longer home to storied strip club Raymond Revuebar (just the neon sign remains), there are at least a couple of sex shops clinging on for dear life here. If you’ve managed not to be tempted by a PVC pony mask, then enter the door to Underbelly Boulevard, a kind of Soho Theatre for even bigger comedy and cabaret show-offs. When the theatre opened in 2023, the first floor was home to a pricey Kitty Fisher’s offshoot called Cafe Kitty. Big spenders were in short supply and it lasted less than a year. Step forward, fuss-free and get-the-job-done Artusi.
Inside, we’re a long way from Bellenden Road. Interiors are giving suburban boudoir; all dark blue velvet seats and white marble-ish tables edged with golden trim. As aesthetics go, the look is at odds with Artusi’s earthy cuisine (as well as their minimal, sentient French workwear interiors in Peckham). But if anything can overcome an adversarial powder pink wall, it’s these exultant flavours.
A thick smoosh of smoked cod’s roe with whisper-thin crackers is the kind of modern classic that almost everybody likes — even if they pretend they don’t, to sound cool. We demolish it before an even more heroic plate arrives; magatello di manzo beef curled like rose petals and dolloped with just-runny-enough gorgonzola and chunks of walnut. Does it look a bit rude? Yes. Is it the best thing we’ve eaten this month? Also yes. An ox-heart spiedino skewer with winter tomato panzanella is a seriously butch salad, think of a peak Jason Statham draped with massive mint and basil foliage and you’re getting close. Things only get heartier when the pasta courses arrive.
Their take on the northern Italian dish of Casoncelli alla Bergamasca – sweet-wrapper style twists of sausage-stuffed pasta – come unadorned aside from crispy sage and lashings of parmesan, their meaty middle more than sturdy enough to fight off any winter chill. Gnocchi with venison ragu is equally seasonal, fragrant with festive cinnamon and the dumplings themselves as seductive as a Dolce and Gabbana ad campaign. This is rustic stodge done right (which is also a great name for a doom metal band, if you happen to be looking for one).
A shared main (they are plenty big enough for one between two) of perfectly pink-in-the-middle sirloin comes with nuggets of crisp spätzle smoky with bone marrow, alongside golden turnips, radicchio and chanterelles. It’s the full harvest festival on one plate, gleaming in various hues of orange and red. A substantial teardrop of tiramisu ends the spectacular in creamy, boozy reverie.
Soho isn’t short when it comes to great food, but with Artusi, it’s just welcomed its latest contender for the top.
The vibe A restaurant in a theatre down an alleyway full of sex shops. Hello, Soho!
The food Hearty Italian food with plenty of pasta.
The drink Grab classic cocktails from the Underbelly bar, with a couple of wine options, too.
Time Out tip Pre-theatre menus run from Tuesday to Saturday between 5-7pm, offering two courses for £25 or three for £30. A decent deal in this part of town. And you don’t even really have to go to the theatre after.