Simple, elegant Italian food in a rustic setting for a decent price: this was the original pitch when Artusi opened in 2014. Headed up by chef James Beer, formerly of the Clove Club, it was the latest indication that Peckham’s Bellenden Road was the epicentre of cool. Sure enough, artisanal pasta was soon all the rage, with the likes of Padella and Lina Stores offering us the chance to slurp and twizzle our way into the zeitgeist. It was no passing fad, perhaps because a good idea, seen through with high-quality ingredients, will always be in vogue. The seasonal menu is usually kept to less than a dozen dishes, with small plates such as the ricotta and walnut-adorned roasted fennel complementing great, gloopy mouthfuls of sardine and saffron spaghetti. Proving Artusi’s staying power, there’s also a ‘sister restaurant’ in Deptford (named Marcella) and a plusher branch in Soho, which opened in 2024.
Order this
In an ever-changing world – and on an ever-changing menu – you can always rely on a hefty scoop of Artusi ice cream.
What’s nearby?
It’s only open from May-September, but the Bold Tendencies arts space is another example of Peckham’s forward-thinking flavour.
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