The three outposts of 28°-50° share a similar wine list, a French-inspired menu and a bright, on-the-ball attitude, but there the resemblance ends. Fetter Lane is a basement with a French country-kitchen vibe, while Marylebone is a shiny new corner conversion, all glass and zinc with wraparound windows and a central bar. The menu offers predictable platters and pâtés, plus a handful of more involved main courses and grill dishes.
The standard is high, give or take the odd stumble (a few unnecessary relishes and flourishes, and a curio of an aubergine main dish whose miso and charred-skin flavours weren’t made for wine-pairing). We particularly rate the grilled meats; the unctuously simple ox cheek braised in red wine; the thin and crispy fries; and the notably generous prawn cocktail starter.
The wine list is a thing of joy, offering upwards of 30 varied and delicious wines from on-song suppliers, many of them small producers, plus a changing themed selection. It’s well worth exploring: order 75ml glasses and follow the young staff’s enthusiastic advice. The crowd is smart, with seats at the V-shaped bar attracting plenty of solo customers and shoppers on a quick break.