An expert guide to the best jollof in London by The Flygerians

Jess and Jo Edun began their culinary quest serving outrageously good food inspired by their grandmother at The Old Nun’s Head pub in south London. They now run The Flygerians, an independent Nigerian street food restaurant in Peckham that is swimming in beef suya skewers, hot wings and – of course – smokey jollof. An endlessly delicious dish with a host of regional variations (not to mention regional rivalries over whose is best, spanning Ghana, Senegal, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Cameroon), jollof is a vibrant one pot rice dish with a tomato base and onions, chillies and spices added into the mix. Iconic? Just a bit.  

As they release their first book, The Flygerians Cookbook, we asked the sisters for their recommendations on where to find the best takes on this classic west African dish in London. Here’s the Flygerians guide to the best jollof in London. 

RECOMMENDED: The best Nigerian and west African restaurants in London.

1. The Flygerians, Peckham 

Jess and Jo Edun: ‘Flygerians, because there is no better place to be! It’s run by us, two Nigerian sisters, who will transport you to Lagos without you needing to ever board a plane. Our vibrant decor and sensational staff will ensure you are taken care of. We believe in social inclusion so whatever your dietary requirements no-one is left behind. We have tantalising dishes bound to take you on a journey to our grandma’s kitchen, such as ayamase, egusi and jollof. We have also introduced some revolutionary creations like the plantain colada and chinoffee pie.’

Peckham Palms, 14 Bournemouth Cl, SE15 4PB

2. Papa L’s Kitchen, St James’s 

‘We went to Papa L’s for Jo’s Birthday and he makes the baddest benachin rice in central London. Benachin rice – also known as jollof rice in many west African countries – is a popular dish with origins in the Wolof tribe of Senegal and the Gambia. The word Benachin literally means ‘one pot’, as the dish is cooked in a single pot. It’s typically cooked with various types of meat and vegetables, but Papa L’s has mastered a vegan version of the dish which makes it inclusive for all.’

16-17 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6LT

3. Jollof Mama, Covent Garden  

‘Owned by the wonderful Tieyan and her husband, Jollof Mama pays beautiful homage to our traditional Nigerian jollof. It’s wonderfully cooked and there are lots of other beautiful dishes on the menu. Open seven days a week at Seven Dials Market, these street food legends are bound to leave you wanting more. They have catered for the legendary Afro Nation festival and always have such warm customer service. So no delays, go and chop!’ 

Seven Dials, WC2H 9AU

4. Monika by 805, Deptford 

‘Monika by 805 is one of the latest spots to open on the west African restaurant scene. The sister branch of the famous 805 on Old Kent Road, it’s a seafood and charcoal grill restaurant in Deptford, south London. Their well-spiced jollof has the perfect taste and texture and compliments every item on the menu. The restaurant also looks sexy and sophisticated; it’s demure, modest and mindful.’ 

14 Deptford Broadway, SE8 4PA

5. Enish, Lewisham 

‘Enish has taken the UK by storm with multiple locations throughout London (they even have a branch in Dubai). But the Lewisham branch, which opened in 2013 and spans three floors, will forever have a soft spot in our hearts. You can expect party vibes alongside bold flavours and energetic diners – as well as a bit of a celebrity following…’.

228 Lewisham High St, SE13 6JU

The Flygerians Cookbook is published by Ryland Peters & Small (£22) and is out now.