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‘Martinis are definitely having their moment,’ explains Rita's co-founder Missy Flynn.
So much so, that we’ve asked the cocktail specialist and Soho restaurateur to take us through her favourite takes on the classic drink. ‘I have thought about this a lot, maybe too much. In part because we make so many each week at Rita’s, but also because I am interested in what moves trends in the food and drink world,’ she adds.
‘My guess would be that the so-called cost of living crisis has sparked an increased interest in ‘bang for buck’ and this famously strong cocktail offers a direct route to a buzz. There’s also the joy in lack of restraint – a martini is a fun way to kick off a fun dinner. Thankfully, you can now get a half decent one in most respectable establishments in London.’
Here’s where you’ll find Missy’s favourite martinis.
1. Ognisko, South Kensington
Missy: ‘At Ognisko, vodka is the play. Do not ask for a gin martini. This beautiful, grand old Polish restaurant offers a huge variety of vodka, specialising, as you might imagine, in those from Poland. A couple of martinis on arrival quickly morphs into a night of chilled, infused shots such as the punchy Chrzan (horseradish) and Wisniówka (cherry). My martini order is a Zytnia Polish Rye with an olive and a twist to take the edge off, because these martinis are punchy!’
55 Exhibition Rd, SW7 2PG
2. Hawksmoor, Spitalfields
‘I gained most of my formative restaurant training working for Hawksmoor. Back then it was a one-site business, with just the original restaurant in Spitalfields, where I worked on the bar. I recently re-visited it and discovered their Steakhouse Martini, which is made with unexpected Chardonnay and green peppercorn. It’s perfectly balanced and a great martini to move onto a nice bottle of red from; not too strong, nor astringent and a nice pickled pepper garnish to munch on whilst your steak sizzles on the grill.’
157A Commercial St, E1 6BJ
3. The Bar at Egerton House, Knightsbridge
‘There are a lot of fantastic hotel bars where you can enjoy a very well made, for-grown-ups-only classic martini. (Special mention to the Connaught here.) The Egerton Martini however was recommended to me by friends Zac and Sophie of the extremely well-loved New York restaurant and deli, Dimes. I promised I wouldn’t blow up their London spot but if a New Yorker tells you a martini is good, you listen. Here they are made with gin, chilled to minus 22 degrees and dressed with vibrant lemon rind. It was on our visit I learnt that two olives in a martini is bad luck, that cheese on toast is the best martini side-snack and became accustomed with something called ‘The Egerton Slurp’. What is that you ask? That is for me to know and for you to book a table, dress up nicely and find out.’
17-19 Egerton Terrace, SW3 2BX
4. Rita’s, Soho
‘In TopJaw terms this would be considered a ‘self nom’ but it’s impossible for me to not say that I genuinely love our Mini Martini. I designed this short, wet martini to be the ultimate pre-dinner drink. We use Cocchi Americano, a honeyed and slightly spiced aperitif wine as our vermouth element. It pairs perfectly with our jalapeno popper gilda; a blue cheese- stuffed olive with Cantabrian anchovy and raw jalapeno. The salt, fat, acid and space are perfectly balanced with the subtle sweetness in the martini. It is, I have to say, bartenders kiss.’
49 Lexington St, W1F 9AP
5. Tayēr + Elementary, Old Street
‘The One Shot Martini at Tayēr + Elementary, the world-renowned bar run by Monica Berg and Alex Kratena, is the martini that inspired Rita’s Mini Martini. Only these two could be so bold as to serve this classic drink in shot form, upsetting classic bartenders the world over by doing away with stemware. This is also a wet martini with a blue cheese olive, and it’s perfect. They say imitation is the highest form of flattery and ours is a total homage but sometimes you just need the OG.’
152 Old St, EC1V 9BW
Want more martinis? And negronis, margs, and French 75s? Then check out Time Out's list of the best cocktail bars in London.