The Biltmore has atmosphere. Bags of it. Whereas other luxury hotels in London can blur into a diamond-frosted blancmange of samey-ness, the Biltmore’s moody corridors, woozy colour schemes and views of Grosvenor Square all mark it out as being one-of-a-kind. Formerly known as the Millennium Hotel, the building has a no-nonsense Georgian facade, which looks 100 percent Mayfair. Inside however, there’s a laudably weird (yet elegant in a David Lynch-y way) ambience that runs through all of the Biltmore’s 257 rooms, 51 suites and various bits. The low-lit hallways should be full of wafting cigar smoke and intrigue, the courtyard car park home to 90s luxury sedans exclusively.
The looming monolithic presence of what used to be the American Embassy next door (complete with gigantic gilded-aluminium eagle), just adds to the vibe: the Biltmore feels like a fittingly mysterious and glamorous rendezvous spot for spooks and double agents.
Rooms have a tranquil grey-and-caramel colour scheme, pale wood floorboards and a variety of fetching rugs. Our bathroom was exactly what you want from a place like this: freestanding tub, warmed floors and lovely slabs of marble. Our suite did feature a baffling 'leather wall' (a kind of immovable screen made of straps), but it didn’t particularly matter. Like a lot of stuff at the Biltmore, it’s just a bit different.
Even at five-star properties, hotel restaurants tend to be forgettable. Grill 88 is actually one of the Biltmore’s best features. The irregularly shaped dining room feels special yet fairly intimate, and the food is all of a genuinely high standard. The steaks, in particular, are some of the best I've ever had in London. Ebullient sommelier (and all-round human encyclopaedia) Jolanta Dinnadge makes for excellent company. Seek her out if you can. Meanwhile the Pine Bar ticks every box: fantastic drinks, exceptional service and a glamorous (yet tasteful) vibe.
Neighbourhood
You’re a few streets over from Bond Street, which is handy if you’re in town to break the bank at Selfridges. To the west is the huge and endlessly discoverable Hyde Park. Anyone in the market for a fun night out away from the ultra-moneyed Mayfair set should head to Soho, with its preponderance of noisy bars and pubs. Basically, you’re in the thick of it.
Nearby
Audley Public House An actually good pub (even though it does get busy) in the middle of Mayfair. Fantastic main room. And upstairs is the indomitable Mount Street restaurant.
White Cube The west London outpost of Jay Joplin’s gallery brand. The two-floor, free-standing building hosts the gallery’s major exhibitions, leaving the Hoxton venue for newer artists.
Gymkhana While it’s not the white-hot property it was, this Michelin-starred Indian restaurant still has the power to drop jaws. The vindaloo is not to be missed.
Time Out tip
If you're a fan of all things spa-y you won't want to miss Omorovicza. Sleek, minimalist and soundtracked by Angelo Badalamenti-esque music, it specialises in a kind of cutting-edge facial rejuvination treatment. Treatment is bespoke, depending on your skin.