Tucked down a cul-de-sac behind The Ritz, St James’s Hotel is deep inside top-hatted doorman
territory. But inside this beautiful Victorian townhouse, a welcome un-stuffiness prevails. It feels like they’ve pulled off something of a heist here, opening a boutique hotel in the heart of the establishment, yet somehow making it feel so warm and human. That’s not to say all the trappings aren’t present and correct. Our suite, with eccentric art on every wall and sweeping views of central London’s most higgledy streets, was sumptuous. But beneath the luxurious flesh are relaxed bones. I could have stayed in Chef William Drabbles’ excellent Michelin-starred Seven Park Place restaurant all night and almost did, taking on an inspired 8 course vegetarian tasting menu that became a guided tour of the receptors on my tongue. Special mention though to the staff here, who faultlessly walk the high-wire between impeccable service, and that thing so often missing from high end hotels - being a laugh. More waiters (if the guest wants it of course, and the skill is in judging, which here they can) should feel at liberty to tell you what their wife really thinks about eggs. If there’s a complaint, it’s that between here and the cosy, refined ‘1857 The Bar’, you won’t spend enough time enjoying your room. But how nice and rare it is to have your expectations, and prejudices, turned on their head by being in the presence of really good people being really good at a really good thing.
Neighbourhood
This is Mayfair. Nothing is out of reach. Insanely priced tobacconists for the billionaire cigar bros, but for the rest of us, the Royal Academy of Arts always delivers, you’re on the West End’s fanciest doorstep, and a hot day in Hyde Park is one of London’s greatest pleasures.
Nearby
The Luggage Room: A secret Grosvenor Square speakeasy where both booking and the cocktails are essential.
Hush Mayfair: A fantastically eccentric and unexpected 30s-style brasserie with private dining
rooms and what might be London’s floweriest courtyard.
Churchill War Rooms: If the news isn’t terrifying enough, glimpse what life would have been like during the tense days and nights of the Second World War.
Time Out Tip
The hotel, once a private members club with Churchill, Henry James and Ian Fleming on its books, has a private secret entrance to Green Park *taps nose*.