The Grafton, a prominent Kentish Town booze-fixture for decades, had a 2013 makeover that made it a gastro-fixture as well. Since then the food has gone through several changes: in-house for a while, visiting Southern-style barbecue (uninspiring) for a while, then salt beef from the heavenly Bell & Brisket for not nearly long enough.
The food policy has reverted to made-on-the-premises. And we hope this is a permanent decision, because The Grafton is currently dishing out some of the best food in Kentish Town.
The menu changes regularly, but certain star dishes seem to be on all the time. Steak, expertly cooked and using exceptionally good beef, comes in three sizes ranging in price from £9 for 225g to £16 for 300g – a clever policy, since people have varying appetites for unadorned red meat. Soup is also a regular and is justly popular. A small plate of ‘tempura broccoli’ (£4.80) was as fine a piece of deep-frying as we’ve come across anywhere in London. Heritage carrot salad (served in two sizes, £6 or a main course for £8) featured a very tasty cardamom-accented dressing. And best of all was a dish of braised short ribs (£14) with carrots and carrot purée. Short ribs are everywhere at the moment, but this version – beautifully tender and with accompaniments simultaneously sharp and soothing – could rub shoulders with the best of them.
Drink prices are easy on the wallet, with wines on tap and by the glass at prices that make some other gastropubs look greedy. The real ale selection changes regularly and is short but well-chosen. Service is attentive and friendly, though we haven’t seen it tested by an over-stuffed room. If the weather’s good, the small roof terrace is the only place to be. Otherwise there’s the huge room downstairs and the smaller one upstairs, which I prefer because it’s quieter.
If you’re a Kentish Towner, The Grafton could be the pub-restaurant of your dreams. It’s a local standout for value, approachability, and quality.