In a basement just off Tottenham Court Road, Lucy Wong is a 1950s ‘Hong Kong’ themed cocktail bar – largely inspired by Richard Mason’s 1957 novel, The World of Suzie Wong. I know what you’re thinking: Asian-themed bar, oriental chic, reductive stereotypes – it could definitely be a problematic undertaking, à la Ivy Asia.
But this place was – deep breath – all done reasonably tastefully. The brains behind Lucy Wong is Eric Yu (who also runs Chinatown’s Opium), who grew up in Hong Kong and reportedly made this bar in tribute to his mum, which is quite sweet, really. The decor is understated, with lots of low-lit lanterns, velvet seats and shiny marble surfaces, and the drinks nod to Hong Kong by fusing cocktail classics with traditionally Asian ingredients like yuzu, lemongrass, and Sichuan pepper.
The Pomelo Sling – a delicate mix of hibiscus mezcal, elderflower liqueur, and pink grapefruit – was fragrant and soothing, comparable to soaking aching muscles in a hot bath.
Food wise, there’s a neat selection of Cantonese eats that will succeed in lining your stomach before – and during – a night out on the town: the dim sum platter was bouncy, the sauces were moreish, the chicken skin was a welcomed umami-shot and the garlic shoots were, well, garlicky. Cocktails were priced around the expected £13.50 to £15 mark, and were all delicious (and thankfully not at all gimicky). The Eastern Sour, with raspberry and thyme liquor, lime, rhubarb bitters, and a scattering of dried raspberry over egg white, was fruity and smooth, while the Pomelo Sling – a delicate mix of hibiscus mezcal, elderflower liqueur, and pink grapefruit – was fragrant and soothing, almost comparable to soaking aching muscles in a hot bath.
These drinks admittedly weren’t the strongest, and perhaps that’s why the atmosphere itself wasn’t particularly chummy: most customers were sitting down in a very formal, date-night-or-maybe-colleague-drinks capacity, keeping to themselves and foot tapping to the live band’s bluesy cover of ‘Murder on the Dancefloor’. Still, the place is open till 3am on Fridays and Satrudays, so there’s a good chance my night was only just beginning. And for central London? It really could have been a lot worse.