Quaffing wine to Shakira seemed unlikely given the Mayfair setting. But I can’t say it’s an experience I didn’t enjoy, even if the businessmen to my left looked a little shell-shocked (a few wines later and they were loosening their ties). The sips don’t lie, but that’s hardly a surprise. Master sommelier Xavier Rousset – formerly of Michelin-starred Texture and now proud parent of Blandford Comptoir and other wine-heavy restaurants – is behind this all-day wine bar.
We were given sound advice for something with a bit more body or a touch more fruitiness on the list of reds, which was excellent, since many wines by the glass were lesser-known varieties. The Bolgheri Rosso – a Super Tuscan with rich berry qualities – was one of the best reds I’ve tasted in ages. You can expect to pay for such finds, unless settling for a snifter (75ml for £5.50, in this instance).
Salty boquerones on toast and a cheese board holding gooey French numbers went well with the wine. That table to the left ordered far larger, ploughing through steak tartare and coq au vin – both looked like heavenly dishes. You’re sandwiched in closely to neighbours (hence my review of next door’s dinner), but the bar was all the more buzzy for it, a surprisingly unsterile Mayfair spot (thanks, Shakira). Yes, it’s pricey for a glass of vino, but you’ve probably brought your credit card to this part of town. Don’t forget, the tips don’t lie, either.