London scrubs up pretty well when it comes to historic buildings. From William the Conqueror’s Tower of London right up to The Queen’s gaff on the Mall. But all that remains of what was once the biggest palace IN THE WORLD, is one elegant building opposite Horse Guard’s Parade.
From the days when the Tudors were larging it, through Stuart scandals, surviving revolution and plague, Whitehall Palace was the main residence for kings, queens, princess and hundreds of minions for over 150 years. At one point, its rambling series of buildings stretched from Nelson’s Column to Big Ben. But in 1698 a fire destroyed almost all of its 1500 rooms and now only the Banqueting House remains.
For this summer only, an innovative tour called ‘The Lost Palace’ enables you to walk around the streets where the Palace once stood and immerse yourself in Palace life as if its royal rascals, unruly servants and most famous residents are standing right next to you or conspiring with each other, just a few feet away. Issued with headphones and a strange microphone/wand contraption (your ‘torch’), you follow a self-guided tour, going out onto Whitehall and the streets and gardens surrounding Banqueting House. At various points you are asked to touch your ‘torch’ on well-disguised listening posts. A whooshing sound transports you back to a scene that took place where you’re standing. It could be a glimpse into Wolsey’s court life, the drama of Henry VIII’s clandestine wedding to Anne Boleyn or the carnival atmosphere of a jousting tournament. Each scene has been specially recorded so it feels as if the action is happening all around you – you are in the middle of an excited crowd, skating on the frozen Thames, or waiting for the axe to fall on Charles I’s neck.
I went with my 16 year old. We were both impressed. We’re not extroverts, but we found ourselves engaging with the commentary and the dramatised scenes. I even tried my hand at reciting Shakespeare in broad daylight. In our group there were children (they get their own version of the same tour), tourists and elderly history buffs. Although we moved around together, each of us was lost in our own world and going at our own pace. And if you’re more interested in the stories Lucy Worsley could never get away with in a BBC1 documentary, there’s a grown-ups only evening tour with added Charles II sauciness. (Not for those who blush easily.)
Funny, moving and fascinating, it’s a brilliantly created tour with plenty of smart surprises. Interestingly, it also feels incredibly positive walking around Whitehall, so close to Westminster. The tour engages you so you feel confident to stop, look up, think about our past and about London life. After some of the events in our city over the past few months, it feels good to reclaim the streets. It's great stuff, and more attractions should be creating experiences like this. Laura Lee Davies