Leitão & Irmão

After a complete makeover in 2005, the flagship store of Portugal's most famous gold- and silversmith showcases its tableware and jewellery to stunning effect. Leitão & Irmão first opened a store here in 1877 - and was patronised by the court as it spearheaded a revival of Portuguese gold-working traditions - but from its original home in Oporto the company was already goldsmith to Brazilian royalty, with branches in Paris and London. (Its workshop is now in the Bairro Alto.) Some pieces, such as the 1942 crown of Our Lady of Fátima, are one-offs, but other historic lines - such as a 1917 silver cutlery set by René Lalique - are still in production.