Tasca do Toninho

Another mainstay of the fish- eating scene in Setúbal – don’t even bother asking about meat
– away from the waterfront hustle and the tourist crowds. If you get there early enough, you will be graced with a display chock-full of fresh fish. Last time we went there, we got lucky and picked out some incredible seasonal red mullet from the Sado river (they’re more of a brownish colour, less orangey than the ones from the sea), and placed the creatures into the wise care of António Oliveira – Toninho – man of the house and of the grill, who artfully prepared them right in front of us. Get the fried whole squid à moda da casa (house- style) as a starter. On your way out, ask Dona Isabel for the sweet potato and medronho cake.