Stop do Bairro

This neighbourhood favourite remains as resolutely unglamorous as ever, its walls decked with football scarves and slogans in Portuguese of the 'You don't have to be mad...' variety. Among well-priced dishes on its extensive menu are caras de bacalhau (codfish cheeks), Azorean polvo guisado (stewed octopus) and, on Fridays, cabidela de galinha (chicken cooked in blood). Helpings are generous - in some cases even a meia dose (half serving) is enough for two - but it's worth saving space for dessert. The wine list is outstanding for this price bracket. You can't reserve, so come early. Note that smoking is allowed and there are just three tables outside.