Primavera do Jerónimo

If you want simple Portuguese grub, look no further than this long-established haven, known to locals simply as Primavera, where you can get a full meal with wine for no more than €20. The menu features hearty soups, clams in white wine, braised liver and other meaty concoctions from the north, as well as grilled fresh fish and bacalhau. The kitchen is on full view from the tiny dining room, where tiles bearing Portuguese proverbs, framed articles and a photograph of Josephine Baker above the table where she ate all make good talking points.