De Castro Elias

Tucked away in the lee of the Gulbenkian, this sleek but informal stablemate of a similarly named restaurant in São Bento delights in reinventing traditional snacks such as moelas (chicken gizzards, sautéed and served in a spicy sauce), feijão branco (white beans) cooked with shrimp, or morcela da Beira (blood sausage), here seasoned with apple and cinnamon. There's a good range of wines.