Café Luso

This is the oldest fado joint in Bairro Alto, where Amália started out. Opened in the 1920s in the former stables of the Palácio de São Roque, it's looking better than it has for years after a recent makeover. Four or five fadistas perform each night, with highlights including Catarina Rosa and veteran singer- manager Filipe Acácio. As in many places these days, a double-bass accompanies the singers as well as Spanish and Portuguese guitars. The folk dances - which are squarely aimed at tourists - come from across the country, including Lisbon. The minimum spend is one of the lowest in the area; there are also various set menus that offer reasonable value compared with the competition.