Aqui Há Peixe

This prettily decorated restaurant brings a breath of sea air to the city: while its regulars include local artists and politicians it has retained its informal ambience. The seafood is wonderful - from the more affordable grilled fish of the day, or squid in beurre blanc sauce, to the blowout cataplana stew or shellfish sold by the kilo. The home-made desserts are a big draw too. For unreconstructed meat-eaters there's Brazilian picanha beef, served with black beans.